Archive for April, 2009

Pittsburg, KS

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

Kansas Dawn

I woke at 5:15 am, struck camp in an hour and was on the road before dawn with my lights on.  An opossum scampered up the opposite side at 6:30.  With the early start I arrived here at 2 pm and considered going further.  The sun came out and the wind shifted from a SE headwind to an easterly crosswind.  But I am too tired and my knees are complaining.  I planned to camp at a city campground here, but there are no restrooms.  It is just an RV parking lot. So this is my 6th night in a motel at an average cost of $55.55 per night, with an AARP discount.

Hammock

Hennessey Hammock

Farlinville, KS

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009
Sunburned Shins

Sunburned Shins

My first day in shorts and I’m sunburned again.  To save weight I carry a travel-sized tube of sunscreen and used it sparingly on my knees and above. That is where the sun hits on a regular bike, but on a recumbent your shins face up.  So now my shins are burnt.  I saw a Scissor-tailed Flycatcher;  whose forked tail is longer than it’s body, and bright Red-headed Woodpeckers.  Some other notable birds I’ve seen: Bald eagles & Pileated Woodpeckers in MN;  Meadowlarks singing on fenceposts, Ring-necked Pheasants, and many hawks in the Hawkeye state of IA;  in MO, Turkey Vultures.  One vulture, reluctant to abandon a carcass in the ditch until I was next to it, hovered curiously over me as I passed. Do bike helmets offer protection from talons?

I’m camping for the first time tonight, at the Richland Grange hall, with freshly mowed grounds, water pump, and a brick shithouse.  There are no houses nearby in a rural setting by a stream.  As I hung my hammock a Barred Owl asked “Hoo, who cooks for you?”  I’m eating an uncooked meal of trail mix tonight.  As the sun set the cacophony began.  Coyotes howling and yipping, other owls hooting, cattle mooing and dogs barking. I hope no one drives in and tells me to leave.  I wake up to repeated loud “Huffs”,  from a large creature sounding angry and defiant; issuing me a challenge.  After yelling “Shoo”, I figure it must be a buck snorting.

Pump & Brick Shithouse

Richland Grange Hall

De Soto, KS

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

Budding Redbud tree & Missouri bridge

Spencer was up at 5:30 to do a club ride, then saw me off at 8:30 as he biked to work.  He pointed out some blooming Redbud, Magnolia, and Dogwood trees; the first I’ve seen this trip.  I crossed the Missouri river to Atchison, KS and cycled through rolling hills with a slight tailwind to De Soto; on the Kansas river west of Kansas City.  I added ensolite padding to the seat pad and back rest, to relieve my sore butt and back.  The kickstand bent and will not hold the bike upright.  The day was sunny and 16 degrees Celsius here;  while it was 18C in St Paul.  My cheeks are sunburned.

St. Joseph, MO

Monday, April 13th, 2009

Spencer Klaassen

I waited until the 11 am check-out time to leave this rainy morning; then removed my rain gear an hour later at the Missouri border.  I turned off US Hwy 71 and found nice back roads through rolling hills to historic and hilly St Joe.  I’m staying with the family of Spencer and Angie Klaassen.  Spencer is an avid cyclist I met through the Warmshowers website for touring cyclists.  From 6 pm last Friday to 6 pm Saturday he cycled a 24 hour randonneur.  He has also completed the Arrowhead 135, an ultramarathon in International Falls, MN in winter.

Clarinda, IA

Sunday, April 12th, 2009

I arrived here at 1 pm, tired after battling headwinds for 83 km.  Overcast sky, wind SE at 25-30 kph and temps 7-11 degrees Celsius.  I was up late last night watching tv with Julie.  We had Skype picturephone on our laptops as we both watched Saturday Night Live.  I still got an early start to beat the rain coming later in the day, lasting until midday tomorrow.  I’m just 16 km from Missouri; having crossed Iowa in three days.  Clarinda is the birthplace of Glenn Miller and also where 4H started.

Atlantic, IA

Saturday, April 11th, 2009

 

9 km of hills south of Carroll, Iowa

Another sunny day in Iowa.  With the hills and headwinds I altered my route and cycled just 95 km.  I left at 10 am, already warm enough to shed layers; 5 degrees Celsius warming up to 16C, wind SE at 20-25 kph.  The county roads I’m on have very light traffic and roughly follow a divide.  Streams on one side flow SE to the Mississippi and on the other side flow SW to the Missouri.  I thought that meant I’d be on relatively flat high ground. I was wrong.  It is very hilly south of Carroll.  Yesterday I crossed rivers every 10k or so; today I crossed small streams about every 2k. And each ravine required a 25m to 50m climb.  I may have climbed close to a thousand meters.  That’s like biking in the Colorado Rockies.

While shifting from high to low so often I had problems with my front derailleur.  I was grinding it against my front sprocket before I realized it had slipped down the tube.  While readjusting it I noticed that some of the teeth are scraped. I’ll need to replace that front sprocket soon or later I’ll be losing teeth.

Cycling at half the pace of yesterday , by 2pm I figured I wouldn’t make my lunch stop, and it was another 50k after that to a motel. So instead of going south I went SW to follow a bike trail along the Nishnabotna River into Atlantic, IA.  The Super 8 here gave me a 10% AARP discount.  I’m concerned that businesses may be closed tomorrow on Easter Sunday so I’ll take US Hwy 71 south, passing through bigger towns; plus there should be fewer hills as it follows the Nodaway River valley.

Carroll, IA

Friday, April 10th, 2009

I cycled 240 km today and made it halfway across Iowa. Yesterday’s 150 km was a big day; today I did 150k after lunch.  Sunny & minus 2 Celsius, warming up to 14C; wind NNE at 30 kph. I did not intend to go so far today. I worry about over-exerting these old bones and thought I’d take it easy the first week. But the route I chose goes through small towns that have no motels between my lunch stop in Emmetsburg and here. I figured as much when I started out today; but with the strong tailwind I thought I might make it to Carroll and there’ll be a headwind tomorrow. My knees are better today. I think it helps to stay well hydrated.

Observations today: a coyote craning his neck back to keep an eye on me  crossed the road 50m ahead and loped away over a field; snowdrifts fill some ditches, still white from last Sunday’s blizzard; I passed several wind farms and detoured at 6pm to cycle through the Mount Carmel wind farm.

Day 2, Fairmont, MN

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

Wednesday Happy Hour at The Eyeball in St.Thomas, MN

Warren Rosburg driving my former UPS route to St. James, MN.

I cycled 110 km yesterday to St Thomas; and 150 km today to Fairmont. Upon arriving at my in-laws in St Thomas, Audrey drove me to the Happy Hour at The Eyeball; where the locals gather Wednesdays, hosted by Luke & Alice Retka. The crowd was eager to hear about my cycling adventure. I know I attracted a few eyeballs to this website. After a nice meal, sleep & breakfast at Jerry & Catherine’s, I was off at dawn this morning. Sunny and minus 2 degrees Celsius. Six wild turkeys strutted in a field, the tom holding his tail feathers erect. I stopped for coffee at the St Peter Co-op, my favorite vegetarian truck stop when I drove for UPS. Upon leaving, I flagged down a UPS truck and visited with Warren Rosburg, returning from St James; a route I’ve done many times. I stayed on Hwy 169 to Mankato; hoping to run into Mark Stephan returning from Slayton. I waited on the levee in Mankato until 10:45 then crossed the river to downtown and ate lunch. As the day warmed up to 10 C I removed layers and headed south from Mankato on low traffic paved roads. The NW wind propelled me to a cruising speed of 32 kph southbound. Turning west I slowed to 24 and zipped up my jersey. Around km 100 my left knee got sore. After a paved back road crossed a county line and turned to gravel, I took the busy Hwy 15 the last 25 km into Fairmont. My left knee felt better and my right knee worse. I hope my knees are okay in the morning.

Joe’s Impressions of My Departure

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

Apr 11th, 2009

A Nice Morning’s Ridedsc0005.jpg

On a recent Wednesday, my friend David got up early to go for a bike ride. After dressing for the still-chilly April morning, he left his St. Paul house and pedaled down to a local coffee shop to chat with friends. Next, he cycled over to the junior high school where his wife teaches and answered student questions about his odd-looking bike. Finally, he crossed the Mississippi River into Minneapolis and headed south toward the open road. He expects to get back home in October. Of 2011. David, you see, is cycling around the world. Again.

Now I like a good bike ride as much as the next person. But where I measure my rides in miles, David measures his in continents. And while accomplishing such a feat once would furnish most people with the moral superiority to spend the rest of their life on the couch, David simply enjoys the experience (as is evident from his bike blog) and is hungry for more. Since his first journey was essentially a “ride east until you get back home” affair, this trip will cover new ground and unfold in a mostly north and south orientation, bouncing between the poles (or as close as is practical.)

In David’s case, getting there is all of the fun, which is a good thing, since his destination is his origin. His enthusiasm for the journey itself, and especially for doing it again, reminds me of a high school English teacher’s advice to read Adventures of Huckleberry Finn three times. By following Jim and Huck down the river as a boy, again in middle age, and finally as an old man, you can experience the surprise and joy of an unchanging text meaning something very different on each reading. In a similar way, I imagine David will find the world at bike-level to be a different place than it was in the late ‘70s.

Before leaving, David asked me to do some photography for his website. Aware that much of his journey would traverse tropical zones, he wanted a banner image for his FAQ page that instantly communicated the northern climate of his home. Which partially explains how I found myself at dawn, near the end of March, lying on the worryingly thin ice that only partially covered Lake Harriet in Minneapolis. Nothing says “cold climate” like biking on water, David reasoned. I was there to help make that statement–and, I hoped, avoid earning a Darwin Award nomination in the process. To be honest, there’s no way I would have even considered such a thing had not David been so reassuringly confident that we’d be fine. While I was still casting a skeptical eye over the small gap of open water between the shore and the ice, David was hopping onto the ice with his bike. He was so sanguine and unafraid, it seemed impossible the ice would prove him wrong, so out I went.

His overall confidence and faith in his own well-being are among the more important things David takes with him on his journey. More than one of his friends wanted to know how he planned to pass through some of the world’s dicier spots with nothing but a bike for protection. David would smile and reply that sure, there were risks, but he wasn’t worried. When pressed, he’d simply state that, in general, he believed that people were good and wanted to help. Were it not for his previous circumnavigation, I’d be a little more concerned for his safety. But just as he seemingly willed the ice on Lake Harriet to hold us, I’m confident his very nature encourages those he meets to follow their nobler instincts.

dsc0152.jpg

Safe and happy travels, David. And save a little energy, because after finishing this trip, you still have one to go.

Noon, Day 1

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009
p4080020-2

On the Stone Arch Bridge with my sons Mackenzie & Devlin.

Lunch at the Chaska Dunn Bros–
I’m on my way!  I left at dawn after kissing Julie good-bye.  I met JonEric & Adam at the bus stop, then visited Kathy & Al at their Ginkgo Coffee shop, and biked to UPS one last time;  sunny & zero degrees Celsius.  UPS is located at latitude 45 degrees north.  The first leg of this trip is to Houston, TX at a latitude of 30 degrees; one third of the way to the equator.   After talking to students at Murray Junior High and kissing Julie good-bye again; a few friends saw me off on the Stone Arch Bridge, braving a stiff crosswind. Ted & Shirley Zinn drove in from Amery, joining my old friends Jay & Steve; my boys biked there and Joe captured it all on film. Not film really, captured on pixels.

I’ve cycled 65 km before lunch, over halfway to St Thomas.  Temps have warmed up to 8 degrees C and the WNW wind may soon help more than hinder my progress.

At the bus stop

Ginkgo Coffee Shop


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