Tapachula, Mexico

Georgina Altuzar Escobar's classroom
Jorge and Elsa were very hospitable to me on their Rancho San Antonio. They took me for a drive up to 1700m into the mountains that I’ve been cycling along the base of through Chiapas. Their ranch is down in flat country near the coast where he grows sugar cane, corn, jalapeno peppers, and next year will add a field of watermelon. They also have cattle, pigs, and chickens. Everyone has chickens. Noisy parrots fly fast like pigeons so I can’t get a close view of them. There is a squashed tarantula in their front entry, looking like half a fuzzy tennis ball, only black. Jorge says they are not dangerous. Danger comes unexpectedly.
While walking around the ranch in the evening with Jorge the workman’s dog comes up behind me, without growling, and bites my right calf. Teeth sink in on both sides. The puncture on the inside is deepest and blood spurts out. The bitch, Gringa, is protective of a new litter and I’m the stranger who may harm her perritos. Jorge is devastated and offers to drive me to health care in town. But I have iodine swabs from Dr. Patricia Elhaj and opt to clean it myself and see if I can pedal in the morning. Gringa’s owner, Lalo, comes around later concerned about me, and maybe concerned about what may happen to Gringa. I, too, wonder if I go to a clinic, will they send someone out to terminate her.
In la manana I pedal into town with no pain and visit the girls’ school in Huixtla. Though no else expects me, I’m treated like a celebrity. Georgina’s teacher is a health fanatic whose son is on the front page of the paper for winning a bodybuilding contest. Georgina and Laura are clearly pleased with who they brought to show-and-tell. That totally erased any negative feeling about my stay here.







