Archive for August, 2009

Julio Andrade, Ecuador

Friday, August 7th, 2009
The Sanctuary of the Virgin at Las Lajas

The Sanctuary of the Virgin at Las Lajas.

The Sanctuary of the Virgin at Las Lajas reminds me of Balinese temples. They are located in the most beautiful places in Bali; and Las Lajas bridges a deep gorge on the Guaitara river, where a vision of the Virgin Mary was seen on a cliff. That cliff now forms the back of the altar of a Neo-Gothic church. Guinea pigs are roasting on spits in stalls lining the entrance before a constant stream of pilgrims and tourists. We spotted no other Gringos. Crossing the border to Ecuador went smoothly with the help of the Mauricio Mosquera family from Pasto, Colombia. We had three hours of daylight left to cycle here, and made it in 2 ½.

Pilgrims fill jugs with Holy Water

Pilgrims fill jugs with Holy Water

San Juan, Colombia

Thursday, August 6th, 2009
Fixing a broken bike rack

Fixing a broken bike rack

In a cool rain (10C) at the top of the pass above Pasto we met two 42 year-olds cycling from Tuquerres to Buga in four days. We took eight days to do it. They’re traveling light; no panniers, just a clean shirt in a back pocket. Towns are noted by their temperature as much as their altitude (i.e. Pasto is 14C, Ipiales is 12). With no seasonal variation there is little temperature change year-round. We coasted for 25k dropping from 3000m to 1500m and temps up to the 30s. The rack holding my right Bike Bin broke again. After an hour of roadside surgery that Bike Bin rides closer to the ground on a jury-rigged rack. The delay kept us from reaching Ipiales today. After seeing just one hotel here looking unfinished, we asked a man sitting by the church about a place to stay. He directed us to nice lodgings supported by the diocese for $6/person.

Pasto, Colombia

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

We finished the climb we started yesterday, up into a rainy mist.  Though we arrived here midday we were ready for a rest.  We expected James to catch up to us again today, but have not yet seen him.  On the way into town an excited motorist stopped to chat and warned us not to stay in the town center;  because of maliantes, scratching his chin to demonstrate.  That must be a gesture to indicate a beard. Bearded men are bad?  We are staying in the town center.  Maliantes better watch out for me, the bearded one!

Chachagüí, Colombia

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
Chacahgui at dawn

Chachagui at dawn

We climbed out of a dry valley, reminiscent of SW Colorado, into greener uplands. 30k into our climb we dropped 600m, hitting gusty headwinds that brought us to a stop.  We also had similar headwinds on our final ascent, and see brush fires along the road and across the canyon.  Small rockslides fall onto the road as we’re cycling by.  James slept in later than we did and caught up to us halfway.

El Remolino, Colombia

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

Valdo & reCyclist on Cruzbikes

Valdo & reCyclist on Cruzbikes

Two Cruzbikes crossed paths in Colombia today.  Valdo (valdonabike.com) is a 65-year-old retired priest from Brazil; just five months into a four year world bike tour.  I immediately knew who he was, having visited his website; and he also knew about me.  He seemed overjoyed to meet us and we visited for an hour by the side of the road.   We are cycling down the Patia valley at an altitude of 600m, the lowest we’ve been since entering the Andes; and it’s hot, in the high 30s.   For lunch I had some local whole milk yogurt, Kumis del Patia, that is sweet, creamy, rich, and delicious.  James had a flat near the end of the day; then Julie had one just 1 km from town.

Valdo is living proof that cycling keeps us young

Valdo is living proof that cycling keeps us young

El Bordo, Colombia

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009
James Pratt

James Pratt

It took five days for me to realize that this is not a 24 hour bug.  So on Julie’s advice I took the antibiotic Azithromycin and am finally getting better after another rest day. British cyclist James Pratt, who’s been laid up with a similar bug at the Hostel Trail here, joined us as we headed south. We saw many cyclists training with light Sunday traffic as the Panamerican Highway winds through great scenery.   We thought the ride would be easier as we ended the day 600m lower in elevation. But with all the deep canyon crossings we climbed a total of 1400m.  James’ website is www.caribbeantocape.com

Touring Popayan

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

We decided to stay another day in beautiful Popayan to help David get over his bug and I took the opportunity to tour the center. This city of sparkling whitewashed Colonial architecture that had been damaged in a 1983 earthquake, was rebuilt and repaired to remain a unique jewel in Colombian cities. In the shopping district were upscale shops selling the latest fashions mixed in with the usual pharmacies, grocery stores, and hardware stores we had been seeing in most towns along the road. There were also many small stalls on the street where fruits and vegetables, watches, sunglasses, and, of course, Chiclets were sold…a very busy place. In the Museum of Natural History, a very cool, if stuffy place, (pun intended), enormous Andean condors tore apart a stuffed unfortunate rodent in my favorite of the bird exhibits. A man with two small children stopped to talk with me about my impressions of Colombia. To my observation, often repeated, of Colombian women being the most beautiful in the world, he, tongue in cheek, explained that is the reason for the unfaithfulness of Colombian men. They can’t help themselves. Later in the afternoon David joined me for a walk in the main square where many people and families wandered and socialized. We had our photo taken by an elderly man, whose father before him took pictures in the park using the same 19th century box camera. As we waited for our picture to appear from the developing process completed inside the box I thought about how this lovingly preserved technology very much belonged in this city where preservation was an art.


We ride Cruzbikes!

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