Esperanza, Argentina
A condor soars low on the hillside, facing us, fifty meters away. The white collar around his neck is clearly visible, as are the white markings on the tops of his wings as he veers back and forth in the gusty winds. Andean Condors are more common here on the low Patagonian pampa than in the high Andes. We, too, are dealing with the infamous Patagonian winds today. Carlos, our hostel manager, cautioned us about high wind warnings when we left this morning. We’d been hoping for tailwinds to assist us in reaching this town, 165 km away; and we sure did fly with the morning wind, even on a 500m climb up the bluff bordering the Santa Cruz river valley. Then we turned south into strong crosswinds that almost toppled us over. Julie has more trouble on her “normal” bike than I do with my lower profile recumbent. I also carry the panniers low and centered which greatly increases stability. I even seem to benefit from the crosswinds, like a sailboat that sails faster with a sidewind (when reaching). I estimated today’s winds at 30 to 50 kph; but the stats for Rio Gallegos (150-300 km away) were: wind speed 39, max speed 68 and gusts to 98.






