Torres del Paine, Chile
Dawn on the Torres (towers) L-R: Sur(2850m), Central(2800m), Norte(2600m)
We hiked up in the dark with snow in the air to watch the sun rise on Saturday (04/Apr).
What does one do on their vacation after biking 15 or 22 thousand kilometers? Why not backpack 120 km or so through one of South America’s grandest national parks, Chile’s Torres del Paine? While it was a bit more challenging than I had signed on for (especially on my knees), I loved our intimate experience in the Andes’ southernmost region. We viewed and trekked through Patagonian steppes, forests, streams, rivers, glaciers, lakes, snow capped mountains, and sheer granite peaks, some capped with black sedimentary rocks eroded at severe angles. One night we were awakened more than a few times to the sound of a calving glacier crashing down a near-by mountain side. On another night we fell asleep to owls hooting, perhaps after feasting on the many mice who flourish on what they scavenge from hordes of backpackers. (We contributed to this careless animal abuse when a fox tore a hole in our low hung plastic food bag and made off with our expensive peanuts, dried bananas and chocolate bars.) My most favorite moment was at the top of a barren pass, 1229 meters high, when the 3rd largest ice field in the world came into view. The Hielo del Sur, which we first glimpsed near Fitz Roy a month earlier, is the sculptor of this park, in the lakes and rivers it spawns and in the wild winds and weather it influences. Gazing to the north and west the vast whiteness stretched over and around mountain peaks. Below us and to the south the enormous Glacier Grey filled the steeply sloped valley we would pick our way down the rest of that day. Our “vacation” in the park was a fitting end to our incredible Andes tour.
We first glimpsed the Torres 8 days earlier at the start of our first backpacking trek in South America.
We did the complete circuit of 116 km with full packs + 17k on day trips.
The Dickson refugio, where expensive dorm beds are available.
We camped, but ate overpriced meals indoors every other day.
A spongy red bog below Cabeza del Indio (2230m)
Los Perros glacier.
It rained 3 of 8 days, sunny for 2.
Fall colors on the only high pass (1229m).
Glacier Grey flows from the southern end of the South Patagonia Ice Field
We viewed Glacier Grey on the rugged hike along it's left bank.
The glacier ends in Lago Grey...
...forming odd-shaped icebergs.
Dark sedimentary rock atop lighter-colored granite on Los Cuernos (the horns)(2400m & 2600m).
Mushrooms
Clear stream flowing over mossy boulder.
Cerro Paine Grande (3050) is the highest point in the park.
Eating at Refugio Los Cuernos with Nickolas & Lottse, a Dutch couple.
Firebush flower.
Hiking down the Ascensio valley from the Torres mirador (04/Apr).
